Category: Time Out

TUDOR BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT BRONZE
BOUTIQUE EDITION

TUDOR presents a bronze version of its famous Black Bay Fifty-Eight model, featuring for the first time a bronze bracelet fitted with a new clasp with rapid adjustment system.

Bolstered by its experience using bronze, TUDOR continues its exploration of this emblematic material with its characteristic ageing, boldly opting for a total bronze look. A new colour palette, based on a rich “brown-bronze” tone, adorns the dial and bezel of a divers’ watch whose naval inspiration can be seen in every detail. A timepiece with an uncompromising design, available exclusively in around fifty TUDOR boutiques throughout the world, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model also offers high technical performance thanks to its Manufacture Calibre MT5400.

KEY POINTS

1. 39 mm satin-brushed bronze case whose colour evolves to match its user’s habits
2. Shaded matt “brown-bronze” dial with applied hour markers and Arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock
3. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
4. “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade A Swiss phosphorescent Super-LumiNova^® coating
5. Bronze bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp with rapid adjustment and an complimentary “brown-bronze” jacquard fabric strap included

A CASE THAT “CHANGES”

The characteristic elements of the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight model are a 39 mm bronze case, an aesthetic nod to the bronzes on old ships and other deep-sea diving equipment, but also the characteristic proportions of the first TUDOR divers’ watches dating from the second half of the 1950s, particularly the famous 7924 reference or “Big Crown”, the first TUDOR watch to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), presented in 1958. 

The choice of a “living” metal – in this case a high-performance aluminium bronze alloy used particularly in naval engineering for submerged parts required to demonstrate a high level of resistance to corrosion such as propellers, for example – ensures the development of a subtle and unique patina on the case of every watch to match its user’s habits. In addition to a highly functional appearance, in line with the naval world to which it pays tribute, the Black Bay Bronze presents entirely satin-brushed finishes that guarantee the homogeneous development of this patina. 

The combination of a domed dial in matt “brown-bronze”, shaded concentrically from the exterior towards the centre, and a bezel presenting the same gold accents found on the hands and hour markers, completes the face of this model. The overall visual effect is of a rich, patinated object that might have battled the waves of the seven seas for years on its owner’s wrist, and which is “made” for them and their lifestyle. 

THE ORIGINS OF TUDOR BRONZE

Bronze is an alloy with properties that differ to those of stainless steel and as such, the craftsmanship required to produce a watch case is as unique as it is spectacular. Once the aluminium bronze alloy has been produced, the bronze used by TUDOR is made into bars, which in turn are cut into slugs, small cylinders of material a few centimetres in length. The slugs are then heated to a high temperature before being stamped individually while hot using a friction screw press, applying a pressure of many tonnes. With this single operation, as soon as it emerges from the furnace, this cylinder of raw material instantly adopts the rough form of the watch middle case. 

From this point, no fewer than forty additional steps are required to obtain a bronze case that is ready to be cased up. Successive machining processes create the final shape and craft the functional parts of the case such as the threading or drilling, as well as the finishes, or the steps required to give the surfaces their final appearance, produced by machine or by hand. It is further complicated by the fact that bronze is a material whose appearance evolves rapidly according to its environment, so all these manufacturing operations, as well as the assembly and final tests of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model are carried out with meticulous care. All handling must be carried out using gloves and according to a specific workflow, particularly for waterproofness tests, between which each watch is entirely dried in order to preserve its new, non-patinated appearance. 

NEW BRONZE BRACELET

While TUDOR has been exploring bronze in its collection for several years, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model marks the first time that the brand has produced a bracelet entirely from bronze. Its satin-brushed links adopting the style of TUDOR bracelets of the 1950s and ’60s, with rivets, are coordinated with the case and will develop a patina at the same pace. A new bronze clasp, also satin-brushed, with a redesigned cover and TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment system for the length, completes the total bronze look. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering 5 positions, this practical system allows wearers of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze to carry out a fine, instant adjustment on an adjustment window along the entire length of the 8 mm bracelet.

COMPLIMENTARY FABRIC STRAP 

In the spirit of an aesthetic tribute to the brand’s naval heritage, TUDOR presents a free complimentary strap with its Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model. The brand has identified the historic uses of its watches and reinterpreted them in its latest models. For several decades the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. One of them, found on a period diving watch and conserved in the brand archives, is made of elastic recovered from a French rescue parachute. It is to this ultra-functional relic, recognisable by its central yellow thread, that the “brown-bronze” woven jacquard strap alludes.

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR and Julien Faure, a 150-year old family company, celebrated ten years of a partnership that existed before the Heritage Chrono – the first model to be equipped with a fabric strap created by the craftsman – was launched in 2010. A fine anniversary for an enduring collaboration built on outstanding expertise.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400 

The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which equips the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the ManufactureCalibre MT5400 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled. 

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it. 

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze model features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, its unprotected crown, as well as the holes of the bars that pass through the horns are typical of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of subtle combinations of historical aesthetic codes and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft), it is the firstborn in a long line of “divers”. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it is representative of the philosophy of a tool-watch of the brand. The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of this TUDOR divers’ watch and those that have gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. 

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches possible. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR is offering a five-year guarantee on all its products sold after 1 January 2020. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered, or any maintenance checks, and is transferable. All TUDOR products bought between 1 July 2018 and 31 December 2019 will therefore benefit from an 18-month extension to their guarantee, that is to say, a total of three and a half years. (TUDOR also recommends having a watch serviced approximately every 10 years, depending on the model and daily usage).

BLACK BAY 58 18K

TUDOR introduces a bold version of its popular model, the Black Bay 58, in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back, Manufacture Calibre and now a solid gold bracelet, complete with “T-fit” clasp.

The name Black Bay 58 18K is, of course, a reference to the precious metal of its case and bracelet, but also to 1958, the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. The Black Bay 58 18K is also the first TUDOR divers’ watch to be made in 18 ct solid yellow gold, offered with an open case back. And now it comes with a matching all satin-finished 18 ct yellow gold bracelet to boot.

KEY POINTS

1. 39mm case with satin finish in 18 ct yellow gold with an open case back
2. Subtly domed matt “golden green” dial with applied hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, in 18 ct yellow gold, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova^® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5400, certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
5. 3-link 18 ct yellow gold bracelet with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
6. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

MATT GOLD AND “GOLDEN GREEN” TONES

Entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, the 18 ct yellow gold case of the Black Bay 58 18K is another first for a TUDOR divers’ watch. An open case back, which reveals the new Manufacture Calibre MT5400, has not been offered by the brand before for this type of product and reinforces the dual aesthetic language of this model. Midway between the legacy of a robust tool-watch that still defines TUDOR and a precious object, the Black Bay 58 18K remains as rare as it is exclusive. The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay 58 18K is emphasised by the combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. The “Snowflake” hands are also in 18 ct yellow gold, as are the applied hour markers.

SOLID GOLD BRACELET

Another first for a TUDOR diving watch, the Black Bay 58 18K now comes with a solid gold 3-link bracelet featuring the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400

The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, which powers the Black Bay 58 18K, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds, TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches with Manufacture Calibres.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE

Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in the Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.

TUDOR IS “BORN TO DARE”

In 2017, TUDOR launched a new campaign with the “Born To Dare” signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air and underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyles. It is testimony to TUDOR’s singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks. The TUDOR “Born To Dare” spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.

ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and unmatched value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He officially set up the Montres TUDOR SA company in 1946 to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more affordable price point. Throughout their history, thanks to their robustness and affordability, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, on land, in the air, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes iconic lines such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and TUDOR Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered models with mechanical Manufacture Calibres with multiple functions and superior performance.